The engine and all its auxiliaries, including the instruments, spares, tools and various fixtures are furnished being coated with a rust preventer and crated for a protracted storage indoors. The expiration date of the rust-preventing coating is entered in the Engine Logbook.
The engine which is to be put into storage must be kept with all its standard equipment in a dry clean room.
With Manufacturer’s consent the crated engine can be stored outdoors under a shed which gives protection against direct exposure to precipitations and sunshine.
Before putting the engine into storage, inspect the box from the outside for visible defects. If the box appears to be damaged, uncrate and inspect the engine. Renew the coat of rust preventer if this appears to be impaired. All traces of corrosion must he removed and the surface freshly coaled with the rust preventer. Repair the box. Never crank the engine during the storage period and in the course of inspection.
If the engine is put into a film bag check the film for integrity; eliminate punctures, ruptures and chaffings without delay.
Renew the coat of rust preventer when the term of the rust-preventing coating applied by the Manufacturer expires. The dates of inspection of the engine and those of renewing the
Cylinder Liner Dismantling and reassembling
Cylinder liners with bores free from visible defects such as fractures, deep scratches, scorings are subject to a check up for the purpose of determining the amount of wear. To that end, the bore is measured at three different levels spaced 20, 75 and 100 mm from the top, respectively, using a hole gauge. Badly worn liners need replacement.
To drive out a cylinder liner, use is made of a special puller applied on taking down the cylinder head and withdrawing the piston with the connecting rod. Preparatory to driving out the liner, apply marks to the liner and block indicating the position of the liner relative to the block.
Give the liners withdrawn from the block a thoroughly cleaning of carbon and scale, wash the liners. Make sure the outside surface coating is free from laminations.
Preparatory to press-fitting a liner into the block, clean the locating collars and shoulder, slip the packing rings on the liner. Press-fit the liner so that the marks applied to the liner and block during the dismantling register one with the other.
If a new liner is being fitted, lap its shoulder to the recess in the block before press-fitting the liner. The lapped liner must project beyond the surface of the block and never he below this surface.
On press-fitting the liner, check the piston for the freedom of movement in the bore and then test the block hydrostatically under a pressure of 5 kgf/cm2 applied for a period between 3 and 5 min.
Dismantling and reassembling Speed Governor
For replacing external spring 26 and internal one 27 of the speed governor, screw out spindle 20 as far as it will go, remove housing 23 and retainer 24.
Fig. Speed governor; 5Д2-1, 5П2, 8П2 and 10П2 diesel engines:1, 20, 33 — splindle; 2 — detent; 3, 5 — spring; 4 — pump cutoff handle; 6 — nut; 7 — bar; 8 — cotter pin; 9 — stopper ring; 10 — pump cut off lever; 11 — upper lever; 12 — bracket; 13 — pin; 14 — lower lever; 15 — fulcrum pin; 16 — spider; 17 — tip; 18 — bracket; 19 — handwheel; 21 — screw; 22 — double-arm lever; 23 — housing; 24 — retainer; 25 — retainer holder; 26 — external spring; 27 — internal spring; 28 — carrier sleeve; 29 — bearing; 30 — sleeve; 31 — weight; 32 — gear
For complete dismantling, lake down bracket 12 integrally with the levers followed by the timing gear cover plate, sleeves 28 and 30, spider 16 with weights 31 and gear 32. To replace the governor springs. Take down the top cover, turn handwheel 14 clockwise so as reduce the tension of spring 13 and renew same.
Fig. Centrifugal constant-speed governor: ДС8, ДC12, П12, П21, П22, 4Ч and 6ч diesel engines:1 — spider: 2 — sleeve; 3 — ball (roller) bearing; 4 — fulcrum plu of weight; 5, 13 — housing, 6 — cover; 7 — weight; 8 — fork-end lever; 9 — spring; 10 — knob; 11 — handle; 12, 21 — bushing; 13 — governor spring; 14 — handwheel; 15 — screw; 16 — eccentric shaft; 17 — screw; 18 — lever; 20 — spring-loaded pull rod; 22, 25 — gear, 23 — drain plug; 24 — collar; 26 — roller; 27 — oil level gauge; 28 — fulcrum pin
The procedure of dismantling the governor and disconnecting same from the fuel injection pump is as follows:
Remove drain plug 23 and drain the governor of oil.
Remove cover 6 with spider 1.
Unbolt housing 5 from housing lit and move the former away from the latter by an amount corresponding to the length of the hold-down surfaces of bushing 21 and the pin.
Move housing 5 aside, disconnect lever 8 and spring-loaded pull rod 20; remove the governor.
Remove gear 22 and housing 19.
To renew the spring of the governor illustrated in Fig., turn handwheel 4 counter-clockwise so as to decrease the...
Fuel Injection Pump Dismantling and reassembling
The procedure of taking apart the fuel injection pump as follows: back off union 12, remove spring 11 and withdraw delivery valve assembly 10, using a special puller. Depress tappet 3, insert a pin into a hole at the bottom of the body, remove retainer ring 23, the pin, lower spring retainer 2, spring 22, upper spring retainer 4, control quadrant 20 and control rack 5. Back off screw 7 and withdraw plunger-and-barrel assembly 21.
Fig. Fuel injection pump, 5Д2, 5Д2-1, 5П2, 8П2 and 10П2 diesel engines: 1 — pump housing; 2 — lower spring retainer; 3 — tappet; 4 — upper spring retainer; 5 — pump control rack; 6, 15, 17 — gaskets; 7 — adjusting screw; 6 — seal; 9 — gasket; 10 — delivery valve assembly; 11, 22 — springs; 12, 16 — unions; 13 — blanking off plug; 14 — bleed screw; 18 — bushing; 19 — union bolt; 20 — control quadrant; 21 — plunger-and-barrel assembly; 23 — retainer ring
Fig. Fuel injection pump, ДС8, ДС12, П12, П21, П22, 4ч and 6ч diesel engines: 1, 26, 34 — plug; 2 — roller; 3, 11, 12 — gasket; 4, 15, 35 — union; 5 — tappet guide; 6 — tappet adjusting screw; 7 — cover; 8 — control quadrant; 9 — clamping screw; 10 — safety screw; 13 — delivery valve assembly; 14 — blanking-off plug; 16, 20 — spring; 17 — plunger-and-barrel assembly; 18 — control rack; 19 — upper spring retainer; 21 — set screw; 22 — wire; 23 — roller bushing; 24 — roller pin; 25 — pump housing; 27 — camshaft; 28 — bearing housing; 29, 38 — bearing; 30 — tappet; 31 — lock nut; 32 — lower spring retainer; 33 — control sleeve; 36 — cover; 37 — seal; 39 — drain tube
The procedure of taking apart the fuel injection pump of Fig. is as follows:
Drain the pump and governor housing of oil, take down the governor and fuel feed pump.
Back off union 15, remove spring 16 and withdraw delivery valve assembly 13, using a special puller.
Take down cover 7, set tappet 30 into its lowermost position and, compressing the spring, remove lower spring retainer 32, back off screw 10 and withdraw plunger-and-barrel assembly 17 through the top bole accommodating union 15.
Shift upper spring retainer 19 downward, remove control sleeve 33 integrally with control quadrant 8, retainer 19 and spring 20.
Back off the...
Injector Dismantling and reassembling
It is good practice to take apart, repair and adjust injectors at a work place specially equipped for the job.
Preparatory to taking an injector apart, wash it. On disassembling the injector, with all the components in benzine or fuel oil, but never in the same bath with the nozzle body and nozzle valve.
Fig. Injector: 1 — nozzle body; 2 — nozzle valve; 3 — nozzle body nut; 4 — nozzle body holder; 5 — spindle; 6 — spring; 7, 13 — gasket; 8 — nut; 9 — adjusting screw; 10 — lock nut; 11 — cap; 12 — bushing; 14 — bolt
Eliminate all the defects in the form of scratches and pitting from the end face of the nozzle body bolder and from the nozzle body surface mating the nozzle body holder, said defects being dealt with on a lapping plate by using lapping compounds. On finishing with the lapping, both mating faces must present uniformly polished surfaces. Renew the components damaged beyond repair.
Give nozzle body 1 with nozzle valve 2 a wash, clean them of carbon and them wash these component in clean benzine once more. Keep the nozzle body and nozzle valve belonging to one injector always as a pair. Renew the nozzle body and nozzle valve if they show such defects as scratches, mat spots or traces of overheating on mating surfaces, nicks, irregular wear of the orifice at its edge. Defects such as scratched nozzle valve cone and its seat in the nozzle body arc rectified by lapping the nozzle valve in the seat with the aid of a lapping compound.
On eliminating all the defects and washing the components in fuel oil, check the nozzle valve for easy movement. To that end, place the nozzle body at an angle of 45 degr. to the horizontal, withdraw the nozzle valve from the nozzle body so that 2/3 of the former’s length is inside the latter and watch the behaviour of the nozzle valve. Normally, the nozzle valve must gradually return into its seat due to gravity.
On reassembling the injector, adjust the nozzle valve opening pressure, check the injector for proper atomization and leakproofness.
Dismantling and reassembling Crankshaft
On the 5Д2, 5Д2-1, 5П2, 8П2, 10П2 diesel engines, the crankshaft is driven out of the block integrally with the bearings by a special puller or by a copper drift which is being slightly lapped on after unbolting the block cover plate at the flywheel end of the engine. The bearings are forced off the crankshaft by puller bolts screwed into crankwebs.
On the ДС8, ДС12, П12, П21, П22, 4ч, 6ч diesel engines, spin off the stirrup nuts, remove the stirrups, measure the axial play of the crankshaft and then take down same.
Wash the crankshaft and its constituent parts, clean all the oil passages, blow off with compressed air and then inspect the crankshaft for the purpose of assessing its serviceability.
All defects such as badly scuffed journals with deep circumferential scratches are intolerable. Minor scratches can be eliminated from journals by giving them a rub with oiled emery paper.
Measure the diameters of the journals to determine the amount of wear. Scrap all those rolling-contact bearings which show any of the following defects: fractures, nicks, scratches, excessive play, damaged race. Crankshaft timing gears with cracks, nicks and worn teeth must also be scrapped.
On eliminating all the defects, reassemble the crankshaft by proceeding in the reverse order.
Scrap all those main bearing shells with defects similar to those which are met with on crankpin bearing shells and are described above.
On the ДС8, ДС12, П12, П21, П22, 4ч and 6ч engines, renew the thrust collars if the crankshaft axial play exceeds the allowable limit.
On the 5Д2, 5Д2-1, 5П2, 8П2 and 10П2 diesel engines, the bearings are shrunk-fitted on the crankshaft by being heated in an oil bath. On the engines of the above model references it is common practice to use old shims placed under the block cover plate at the flywheel end, replacing, of course, defective shims with new ones of the same thickness. Fit the cover plate so that the oil drain hole is at the bottom.
On the ДС8, ДС12, П12, П21, П22, 4ч and 6ч diesel engines, abundantly lubricate the journals and main bearing shells, using crankcase oil, fit the stirrups and tighten the stirrup nuts in a uniform way, starting with the nuts of the stirrup holding down the midmost bearing. On tightening the nuts of each bearing, cheek for ease of rotation by hand. Lock the stirrup nuts.
Connecting Rod-Piston Assembly
Carefully remove the carbon from the top of each cylinder liner, using a scraper. Back off the crankpin bearing bolts accessible through the cylinder block manhole, remove the bearing caps and withdraw each of the connecting rods integrally with its piston through the cylinder bore.
Thoroughly clean the components of carbon and inspect them to access their fitness for further service.
As far as the bearing shells are concerned, circumferential scores, deep indentations, molten portions and numerous pitting indicating corrosion make these components unfit for further service. Gritty particles on shells which show no signs of wear call for the replacement of these shells, for these particles may bring about intensive wear of crankpins.
The crankpin bearing bolts are components of vital importance and even a slight defect thereof may result in a major breakdown of the engine. Scrap those holts which have blunt threading, scratches and also those which are bent or elongated. The threading of the bolt holes in connecting rods must also show no signs of damage.
The piston rings are removed by means of removers placed under the ring which is being removed.
Remove the snap rings holding each piston pin, warm up the piston in an oil bath and drive out the piston pin.
Pistons showing indentations and nicks in their outside working surface as well as in the piston pin holes and those which are badly scuffed or coated with aluminium due to overheating are subject to scrapping. The amount of piston wear is ascertained by measuring the outside diameter of piston skirt at the three lands, the diameter of piston pin holes and the width of piston ring grooves.
Subject to replacement are the piston rings which are worn down in width (display a wide side clearance), those with an excessive free gap, with geduced resiliency and also chipped rings.
Fractured or badly worn down piston pins must also be renewed. The same applies to those snap rings which are warped, worn down badly or display residual deformation.
Each small-end bushing must be a tight fit and show no signs of excessive wear. On press-fitting a new small-end bushing into its place, ream the piston pin holes so that fitted thereinto can be a piston pin of a diameter increased by an amount equal to the assembling clearance.
Preparatory to reassembling a connecting rod-crank assembly, thoroughly wash all the components and lubricate with clean crankcase oil.
In assembling each connecting rod-crank assembly, the piston,...